TSM Rear Disc Brake Installation
you've heard the stories can just can't take it anymore ~ you need rear disc brakes.
But what kit? Should you piecemeal it together from some random Internet how-to,
or should you go with a full out kit. Honestly, I can't answer that for you. But
if you want to be done in UNDER a day or three, buy the kit.
get me wrong, for those of you with the know-how and *trust* to go with junkyard
parts ~ more power to ya. But for me and my customers, I like the peace of mind
that the parts were designed to work together, have a warrantee, and ~ lets never
forget ~ are PROVEN to work the first time.
In my never-ending
search for finding the best rear disc brake kit ~ I have found that time-after-time
~ I return to TSM's (a.k.a. StreetRod Manufacturing) full on kit. I've learned
that its easiest to get what I know will work, look good, and something I can
EASILY install in VERY little time. Best thing is, no welding and very little
you already know that don't ya, that's why you've bought the kit from me and are
looking at these installation instructions. Well, lets get down to brass tacks
The first part of doing a rear disc brake kit is
the removal of the old drum brake setup. On my axle that was already done, but
I'll describe what you have to take off. The drum pulls off, simply discard/donate/sell
it. The brake shoes, hardware and backing plate are in front of you all held together
with some wires, springs and flimsy toothpick looking things. DON'T DISASSEMBLE
THE BRAKES. There are four nuts that hold the whole brake system in place. Remove
them, and you're half-way-home. To take the brakes off, you have to remove the
four nuts. To do that, rotate the axle till you can see the nuts through the access
hole in the wheel flange (where the wheel studs are). Simply remove one nut at
a time, rotating the axle to the line up the next nut with the access hole.
best to replace your wheel bearings while your in there. I use Timken Set10 wheel
bearings. When you put the new bearings and seals in place, DO NOT put on the
seal retainer. You'll see why in a bit.
if the kit came with one, make sure you slide on the spacer plate before locking
prep the axle plate with the 4 bolts supplied with the kit.
on the axle such that the middle of the four bolts are pointing as much as possible
towards the rear bumper. (Note, besides my camera angle being off, my axle is
rotated, so it doesn't look like its positioned correctly, but it is)
the 4 new T-bolts, the lock-washers and the lock nuts to secure the axle mount
to the axle tube. Note how this mount doubles as the bears/seal retainer as well!
TSM kit comes with an assortment of spacers. You're going to separate them in
4 EQUAL piles. These spacers are used to properly position the caliper bracket.
Remember, YOU MUST USE ALL SPACERS EQUALLY. Normally 4 spacers per location, 2
locations per side.
the caliper bracket onto the assembly
the treaded side of the caliper bracket is towards the wheel.
make sure you tighten the four corresponding nuts that hold the caliper bracket.
I use RED lock-tite to make sure they NEVER come loose.
that all the bolts are in and tight. Time to install the brake rotor. Simply slide
it onto the wheel studs like you would you're tire. For the moment, I use a lug
nut to keep things in place.
notice that the brake is a little sticky ~ this is an anti-rust coating put on
at the end of the manufacturing process. I use standard brake clean to clean it
Now that the rotor is on, we can install
the caliper. I normally get the calipers from TSM ~ their prices are about the
same as going to a part store (sometimes cheaper if you count the core charge)
~ However, the big difference is that TSM includes all the hardware as part of
the caliper kit. Meaning you don't need to worry about all the funny brake hardware,
you already have it!
go on like so.
you install the caliper bolts ~ take a moment and make sure the calipers are on
the right side.
The bleeder screw should be on the top (left picture).
'Banjo bolts' should be at the bottom of the caliper (right picture).
slide the caliper bolts into place ~ there is two ~ one up top, one bottom.
with Allan wrench
only thing left is to mount the brake lines. You're stock ones will NOT work.
They need to be shortened and then you can utilize a short flexible line. These
are available at your local parts store, but I get the steel braided ones from
TSM (Steal braided lines don't flex/swell like rubber ones ~ giving your pedal
a firm and positive feel. Short lines are available from TSM (both standard rubber
and steal braided).
As you can see, the braided lines come with new lines, washers, crush washers
and tabs to help mount them to the axle tube ~ as with the calipers, TSM makes
sure you have all needed parts. At D and C, we always replace all brake line on
the rear axle to complete the job and give it a clean, professional look. We use
3/16" hard line (same as stock).
you're worried about the bare metal, don't. Normally TSM would send zinc plated
parts, we specifically requested the bare metal parts. The part used on this write-up
were painted after the write-up (along with the axle, u-bolts and everything else
you see in the last picture!).
I will elaborate on these
instructions, and give further tech support to paying customers ONLY. If you didn't
buy the TSM kit from me, do not call me for tech help. Larger pictures are available
(by e-mail) to paying customers only ~ no additional charge.
hope I was able to clarify some of the instructions, as well as build your confidence
in being able to install TSM's rear disc brake kit on your own. Besides the brake
line flaring/bleeding, most work should be fairly easy and quick to do.
Brake work should only be done by competent and professional persons. When mounting
short flexible brake lines, you may be required to shorten and re-flare the stock
hard brake line (on the axle) If you are not comfortable with doing this, a brake
shop can do it for you for about $40 (prices may vary). I have purposely been
vague on some of the details involved (such as wrench sizes, etc.) this write
up should NOT replace/supersede the provided instructions from TSM.
instructions are to be used ONLY with TSM's Scout Dand44 and Ford 9" Rear
disc brake kits, if you need support on any other kit, please contact the manufacturer
for that other kit. Total time needed should rarely exceed 2 hours for the complete
job (not including hard brake line manipulation and bleeding).